Restaurants, places and hospitality. Wine is poured somewhere, by someone, for a reason. The Table covers the rooms where that happens: the lists worth travelling for, the sommelier who backs an unfashionable region, the pairing that works and the one everyone repeats without checking. Reviews of wine lists, reporting on hospitality, and the occasional meal worth describing in full.
At Azafrán in Mendoza, the table sits inside the cellar, and wine gives rhythm to a nine-course journey through contemporary Argentine cooking.
At Confine in Milan, changing forms of dough, pure flavours, precise wine service and a joyful team turn pizza into a complete restaurant experience without taking away its informality.
At Arpège, Alain Passard lets the garden determine the ingredients and time shape the experience. Across four hours, vegetables, precise service and restrained presentation reveal a cuisine built on clarity of flavour rather than spectacle.
ATOME distils fifteen years of Aline and Éric Serva’s relationships with artisans and growers into an intimate Reims table. Direct cooking, independent producers, music and close hospitality reveal Champagne through proximity rather than spectacle.
Parcelles, Le Saint Sébastien and Café des Ministères represent three distinct Paris tables, but share one principle: the wine list must belong to the room, connecting cooking, service and atmosphere rather than existing beside the menu.
Facing Madrid’s Puerta de Alcalá, Berria turns an immense cellar into part of the room. Its digital catalogue, precise service and ingredient-led cooking make a vast wine collection feel coherent rather than overwhelming.
No stories in that place.
Wine news reported with the context most coverage skips: what happened, who it affects, and what it changes.
→ 02Observations from the road and the vineyard — what a writer sees between the appointments, closer to the ground.
→ 03Essays and editorial points of view. Where the journal argues — signed, unsponsored, and open to disagreement.
→ 04History, provenance and memory. Older bottles and what they still tell us long after their makers are gone.
→ 05Restaurants, places and hospitality. The lists worth travelling for and the rooms where wine is poured.
→ 06Every wine we rate on our own 01–05 scale, awarded by our tasters — never averaged, never licensed.
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