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The Cellar Journal

Bangkok, Where the Glass Belongs at the Table

Bangkok's tables move naturally between street kitchens and tasting menus, prestige Champagne and Thai wine. Fred Sabbag discovers a city where what is poured matters because it belongs to the meal, not because of the hierarchy on the label.

Bangkok, Where the Glass Belongs at the Table

n the Thai capital, the same sense of range appeared in the glass, from Krug and Burgundy to low-intervention wines, Thai Viognier and sticky-rice sato.

By Fred Sabbag | November 2, 2026 | 8 min read

Looking back at my Bangkok itinerary, it seems slightly unreasonable. In a matter of days I ate at Le Du, Potong, Sühring, Ms. Maria & Mr. Singh, E-San, Gaggan, Nusara, Sra Bua and Haawm. I went to Jay Fai, wandered through markets, ate on the street and stopped by Gaggan Anand's project with Louis Vuitton.

It was a trip deliberately organised around food, so I expected to come home thinking about curries, chillies, noodles, fermentation and far too many meals. What I had not expected was for the things I drank to occupy almost as much space in my memory.

Bangkok hardly needs another argument for its place among the world's great food cities. What interested me was something slightly different: how many ideas of what a restaurant can be seem able to coexist there without the city ever appearing unsure of itself.

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