The Study Library · The Cellar Journal

Brunello di Montalcino seems simple on paper. It comes from one municipality, is made from one grape and follows one of Italy’s longest ageing regimes. Yet few Italian denominations demonstrate more clearly how misleading simplicity can be.

The grape is Sangiovese, traditionally called Brunello in Montalcino. The production area follows the historical boundaries of the municipality, but within those boundaries vineyards range from roughly 120 to more than 600 metres above sea level. Exposures change constantly across the hills, geological formations vary substantially, and the influence of altitude, wind and nearby Monte Amiata creates very different growing conditions.

The result is not one Brunello style. Wines from the cooler northern and higher sectors can develop very differently from those grown at lower elevations toward the warmer south. Montosoli, Tavernelle, Castelnuovo dell’Abate and Sant’Angelo are all part of the same denomination, but they should not be expected to behave identically.

This diversity is the key to understanding Montalcino. Brunello is best approached as Sangiovese interpreted through a large and varied territory.