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The Cellar Journal

Cepparello 1997: When Pure Sangiovese Broke the Rules

Nearly thirty years after harvest, Cepparello 1997 remained centred on fresh cherry, fine texture and precise acidity. The pure Sangiovese that once stood outside the rules of Chianti Classico had matured into proof of why those rules needed to change.

Cepparello 1997: When Pure Sangiovese Broke the Rules

Almost thirty years after harvest, Isole e Olena’s Cepparello 1997 retained remarkable fruit, freshness and definition. A pure Sangiovese created when the rules of Chianti Classico did not permit one, the wine helped change the course of a region. This bottle showed why.

The first aroma was fresh cherry.

Not dried fruit, not the subdued red fruit we sometimes accept as evidence that an old wine is still alive. This was clear, vivid cherry, accompanied by a delicate floral note that brought brightness to the nose. Only after the wine had spent some time in the glass did its more mature character begin to appear.

Sweet spices came first, followed by cigar and tomato leaf. They were unmistakably tertiary notes, but they never became the dominant voice of the wine. The fruit remained in front, while the aromas created by bottle age developed around it.

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